Natural Bridges National Monument

Bluff, UT

After completing the drive up the Moki Dugway (see yesterday’s blog), we continued north to visit Natural Bridges National Monument.  There are three natural bridges in the monument, and we decided to hike to all three.  The park has a nine mile Bridge View Scenic View Drive that leads to numerous overlooks, where you can look down into the canyon for a view of each bridge.  From each overlook you can also hike down into the canyon to each bridge.  Or you can hike an undeveloped trail that goes through the canyon past all three bridges.  That’s the hike we wanted to take.   A ranger in the visitor center advised us to park at the last bridge, then hike across a mesa to the first arch and go down in the canyon at that point.  We could then hike the canyon trail back to the third arch and the car.

The hike across the mesa was fairly flat.

But at times you needed a little help.

And at one point the slickrock became a bit steep.

After a two mile hike across the mesa, we arrived at the first overlook where we could look down on the Sipapu Bridge.  It’s difficult to see the bridge from this point, but we were headed down into the canyon for an up close look anyway.

The hike down was a bit steep at some points.  For the steepest part, the National Park Service was kind enough to install a set of steps just for us.

At another point they again provided some help, but the money must have run out after they purchased the steps, as the next assist was down a ladder made from local tree limbs.

After coming down the stairs and ladder, we continued down to a point where there is a bridge overlook.

At the overlook, we enjoyed another great lunch with a view.

As we continued down from the observation point, the team leader encountered a spot where the sliprock became quite steep.  So what’s the plan to get down it?

Send the nimble hiker down first, that’s the plan!

She even bounces down another ladder with no difficulty.

But the team leader was not so nimble as he tried to keep pace.

The nimble hiker maintained the lead all the way down to the creek bed.

From below, the Sipapu Bridge is quite impressive.

From the Sipapu Bridge, we headed upstream, sometimes hiking in the stream bed, at other times on the trail running along the side of the stream.  For most of the trail  vegetation was very sparse, but in places where there was enough water, the plants were ten feet high.

The Pincushion Cacti were in bloom!

After about three miles, we rounded a bend in the canyon and spotted the second bridge, Kachina, in front of us.

As the trail passed under the bridge, we spotted some petroglyphs in the rocks above us.

The Kachina Bridge, youngest of the three, is a massive rock wall.  In the picture below take note of the hiker walking toward us.

We continued hiking up the stream, much of the trail going over loose sand.

After slogging through the sand and scrambling a bit over rocks for about four more miles, the third bridge, Owachomo, finally came into view.

Streams no longer erode Owachomo Bridge, but frost and seeping moisture still do.  There is a crack in the center portion, but no one knows if it is a fatal crack or if the bridge will last for centuries.

After hiking a total of over nine miles, we were happy to see the Jeep come into view as we climbed up from the Owachoma Bridge.  Since we had hiked the canyon up stream and slowly gained elevation, the climb back out at the third bridge, Owachoma, was much less than the steep climb down into the first bridge, Sipapu.  Good thing, as we were about out of gas at that point!

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Driving Up the Moki Dugway

Bluff, UT

The Moki Dugway is located on Utah Route 261 just north of Mexican Hat, UT.  It was constructed in 1958 by a mining company to transport uranium ore.   Route 261 is thirty-four miles long, with most of it on a flat, nicely paved two lane road.   The tricky part is the three miles of unpaved, but well graded, switchbacks go up 1100 feet to the top of Cedar Mesa.

The term “moki” is derived from the Spanish word moqui, which was a general term used by the 18th century Spanish explorers and settlers in this region to describe the Pueblo Indians they encountered and the vanished culture which left behind the numerous ruins in the area. The term continued to be used by the pioneers who moved into southern Utah during the 1800′s and their descendants.

Be Warned!

As we approached the Dugway,  the road was nice smooth pavement.  But looking ahead we just couldn’t see where the road was going to go as we approached the Mesa wall.

While on a nicely paved road, if you see this sign . . .

. . .get ready for this.

Now we begin to head up ! !

We stopped at a turn-out to check out the view.  In the distance, we could see something in the gap between the rocks.

A zoom picture revealed some people at the next turn-out in the road enjoying the view.

As we looked around, we could hear a large vehicle coming up the road behind us.  Signs down below warned against large vehicles using the road,  but around the corner came this big boy!

We watched as the truck made its way up the road ahead of us.

We continued up-ward to the next turn-out, where the views were quite impressive.

After successfully negotiating the Moki Dugway, we continued driving north to explore Natural Bridges National Monument.  More on that adventure in our next blog.

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Moving to Bluff, UT

Bluff, UT

Sunday morning we were up and ready to go by 9:00 AM, early for us.  After a quick stop at the Wahweap Resort for a coffee-to-go (it’s a Starbucks!) we were on the road, headed for the small town of Bluff, UT.  There are many places we want to explore in that part of Utah, including some ancient Pueblo cliff dwellings.

As we drove north on Rte. 163 across Arizona and into Utah, we went through an area known as Monument Valley.  The area is a flat, dry desert surrounded by soaring rock formations

As we approached the tiny community of Mexican Hat, we crossed the San Juan River.

The picture below shows where Mexican Hat got its name.

Interesting natural formations surrounded us as we drove further north.

After a drive of about 175 miles, we arrived in Bluff and quickly settled into our site at Cadillac RV Park.  This is a pretty basic park, a gravel lot with hook-ups.  But it has just what we need: good power, water, sewer, a level site, and decent WiFi.

In a blog we follow, RV Sue recently visited Bluff and highly recommended the Twin Rocks Cafe, so we decided to give it a try for dinner.  We’re glad we did, as the Indian Fry Bread Pizza was excellent!

We’ll be settled here in Bluff, along with the 32o residents of the town, for about eight days as we explore the area.  More on those adventures later . . .

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Birthday Arch Hike – Lake Powell

Page, AZ

Today is our last day in the Lake Powell area, so despite the chance of showers (10%) we decided to head west for a short hike to see another arch.  After driving about twelve miles west we parked the Jeep along the edge of Rte. 89 (plenty of room to get off the road) and climbed down into the wash.  About half of the time on this hike you are on soft sand, making for some difficult walking.

In some spots we were able to get up out of the sand and walk on slickrock along the banks of the wash (much easier walking).

At times the entire wash was on slickrock.

A few times we came to what is called a pouroff, where there would be a water fall if the steam was running.  We climbed up some of them, but a few were just too high, even for highly skilled climbers like us!

So for these pouroffs, it was a climb up and around.

After about two miles we turned west into a smaller wash.  Keen trackers like us are able to spot well hidden turns like this one.  But the rock formation pictured below was available for less skilled hikers.

Finally, we began our final climb to the arch.  As the picture below shows, the clouds were getting a bit darker and we could hear a little thunder in the distance.

But we kept going and soon the Birthday Arch came into view.

Lunch with a view

After a brief stop for lunch, we began the climb back down to the wash.  At times things got a little tight on the trail.

Then things got a little steep.

But the nimble hiker and her trusted guide made use of all their physical attributes to safely complete their descent.

We continued back down the wash, with a cloud cover and a few raindrops encouraging a steady pace.  Along the way we were able to see some nice desert flowers in bloom.

So that ends our stay next to beautiful Lake Powell.  This stop wasn’t on our travelling agenda, but we added it after seeing pictures on Sue and Dave’s blog, Beluga’s Excellent Adventure.  And we’re sure glad we did as this area is very beautiful, with lots to see and do.

But tomorrow is moving day and we’re off to visit the metropolis of Bluff, UT.  Maybe all 270 residents will be out to meet us when we arrive!  More on that later . . .

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Wiregrass Canyon Hike – Lake Powell

Page, AZ

The weather on Friday was about eighty degrees and cloudy, a good day to hike a canyon.  So we drove to the northwest and took a dirt road around to the north of Lake Powell to do the Wiregrass Canyon Hike.  A description of this hike said we would see two natural bridges, as well as balanced rocks and arches at the top of the cliffs if we hiked two miles down a dry wash.  That sounded interesting, so we parked at the trailhead and hiked down into the nearby wash.

For most of the hike our trail was trimmed with many colorful wild flowers along the banks and the surrounding canyon walls.

We don’t know what the plant below is called, but John thought it looked like a Wilson Truck Antenna (used by many RVers to boost cell phone signals).

Some of the rocks along the wash showed an extreme amount of erosion.

At a few spots we had to do a bit of scrambling to get over or around some drops in the wash.

After hiking about a mile, we came to the first of the natural bridges.  This one is basically a hole in the narrow wall that separates two canyons.

The bridge from one side . . .

. . . and from the other side

The bridge from a distance (John is resting in the opening)

Along the way we did see some wild life.

Some sort of horned lizard

Sentinels kept an eye on us from above

A couple side trips into narrow canyons provided some scrambling opportunities.

Into a side canyon

He nimbly uses his hiking skills going up

But now how does he get back down?

Sometimes even a nimble hiker looks a bit awkward

Other times he looks like he knows what he’s doing

This may require use of some advanced hiking skills!

The return trip

Climbing back out of the wash

Remember, the description of this hike said there were two natural bridges within two miles of the trailhead.  Well, we hiked three and a half miles down the wash and never did see that second bridge.  Maybe it is further down the wash.  But this is still a good hike, one we would definitely recommend.

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Boat Trip to Rainbow Bridge

Page, AZ

On Wednesday we had a reservation for the Rainbow Bridge Boat Tour on Lake Powell.   They run the trip once a day in the winter, departing at 7:30 AM, and twice a day in the summer beginning on May 15th, with the second trip leaving at 12:30 PM.  Since Wednesday was May 15th and we don’t like to get up too early, we opted for the later trip. The tour departs from the Wahweap Resort Marina, just a mile from our RV site, so we could ride our bicycles to the resort.  The only complication was the departure time.  Wahweap Resort and Campground, where we are staying, is just south of the state line between Utah and Arizona.  Arizona does not follow daylight savings time, so they are one hour behind Utah.  But since we came here from Utah, and we are going back into Utah on Sunday, we opted not to change our clocks since we don’t usually care about the exact time anyhow (come on, we’re retired!).  But the tour boat company follows Arizona time, so we needed to be careful so as to arrive on time.  Aah, the complications of life!

We did manage to handle all the mathematics involved and arrived right on time to board the boat.  It is a relatively small tour boat with an enclosed lower deck and an open upper deck with a 35 seat limit.  We opted for the upper deck to better enjoy the views.

Visiting tourists all ready to go!

Looking forward on the upper deck

Once under way we were able to move around the deck, as most passengers opted for the lower deck to avoid the strong winds.  The headphones in the picture below attach to a receiver you where around your neck.  Periodically there is a narrative broadcasted with information about scenic points.

The resort is located along Wahweap Canyon.  The Navajo translation of Wahweap is roughly bitter water, as the water in the creek here before the dam was full of minerals and apparently didn’t taste good.

After about two miles we entered what is the Colorado River portion of Lake Powell, with the Glen Canyon Dam and bridge on our right.

We then headed north for a two and a half hour journey to our destination, passing numerous beautiful rock formations all around us.

About five miles from the dam we passed Antelope Marina, a new facility being built by the Navajo Nation.  It was full of large houseboats, one of the most popular type of boats on Lake Powell.

We continued north on the lake, enjoying the views despite the high winds that bothered our hair!

At times the lake became narrow as it moved through a canyon.

At other times it became very wide.

After almost two and a half hours we turned sharply to the east and headed into a narrow canyon, on the final leg of our journey.

The boat easily fit through the canyon, but at times it felt like you could just reach out and touch the canyon walls.

As the boat made its way through the twists and turns, a sign occasionally provided directions.

We then reached the end of deep water, where a small dock allowed us to tie up for a hike up to our destination.

The lake is about a hundred feet lower than capacity, so a hike of a bit less than a mile is necessary.

As you round a final turn in the canyon, our destination begins to appear.

Finally there it is, Rainbow Bridge!

Rainbow Bridge is often described as the world’s highest natural bridge. The span of Rainbow Bridge was reported in 1974 by the Bureau of Reclamation to be 275 feet, but a laser measurement in 2007 has resulted in a span of 234 feet.  At the top it is 42 feet thick and 33 feet wide.

After a layover of an hour and a half to enjoy the bridge, we returned to the boat and headed back through the narrow canyon.

The return trip was into the wind, so we took a bit of a beating all the way back.  But the views all around us made it worth staying on the upper deck.

This trip is a bit expensive, but unless you have your own boat (or wish to rent one), its the only way to get to Rainbow Bridge and also see a good portion of Lake Powell.  We highly recommend it!

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Hanging Garden and Horseshoe Bend

Page, AZ

Monday was our first full day in the Lake Powell area.  With temperatures in the low 90s we took it easy and just did a couple of short hikes nearby.  The first is called the Hanging Garden Hike, a one mile round trip hike to view an unusual spot of vegetation in the middle of the desert.

Slickrock on the Hanging Garden Trail

Along the trail one of us became very excited when he/she (guess which one) spotted some flowers on a nearby Prickly Pear Cactus.

Other desert plants also had some flowers in bloom.

Tucked under the shoulder of a ridgeline is the Hanging Garden,  a green oasis with ferns growing from the undersurface of the ledge.

If you look closely you can see some small Orchids growing among the ferns.

On the way back to the trailhead we crossed paths with this small group of hikers.

After visiting the Hanging Garden, we drove about five miles south to check out Horseshoe Bend.  There is a hike of about three quarters of a mile one way over loose sand (over a hill) to reach the bend, but it is well-worth the hike.  The view of the Colorado River below is spectacular.

In the evening we took a walk down by the lake to watch a beautiful sunset light up the sky

The end of a beautiful day!

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